Volti Audio Crossover Networks
Thank you for your purchase of Volti Audio Crossovers. These installation instructions will guide you through the installation of the networks as well as the adjustments available.
These instructions are geared primarily towards the VT Networks (VTK400 and VTB400). There is also information on how to connect and make adjustments to the VX networks. There are enough similarities between the VT and VX networks, that if you've purchased the VX networks, I still recommend that you read through all the VT information, as you will find some very useful tips on tuning your system.
Crossover networks are shipped in product-specific packaging that has proven to be very
durable, and we've had very few problems so far with shipping damage.
However, please inspect the box and contents for damage, and if you do have shipping
damage, please let me know asap, and before you install anything so we can put a claim
in to the shipping company for reimbursement on the insurance.
First, remove the old networks and wiring from the speakers. If you're upgrading other components, install everything else first before installing the new networks. Take this opportunity to remove and clean the wire connections to the woofer chamber door.
VERY IMPORTANT FOR KLIPSCH KHORNS with AK-2, AK-3, AK-4, and AK-5 crossover networks. These networks have woofer crossover components located inside the woofer chamber, mounted on the inside of the woofer chamber cover. It is very important that you REMOVE OR DISCONNECT the stock, existing crossover components located inside the woofer chamber door if your Khorns have them. If you are unsure about this, you should remove one woofer chamber cover and have a look. The new networks have all of the woofer components necessary, located on the main board, and will not work properly if the signal is passed through these other components. The woofer output of the network must have a direct wired path to the woofer without going through additional components, on both the positive and negative wires. If you have components inside the woofer chamber, you should disconnect the existing components from the connectors on the woofer chamber door and add new wire directly from those connectors to the woofer. If you have any questions about this, please contact Volti Audio for assistance before operating the speakers.
Volti Audio crossovers are not screwed into the cabinets. They have sticky polyurethane feet that hold them in place inside the cabinet. If you are moving your speakers (more than just sliding out of the corners), you may want to remove the networks so if you tip the speakers they don't fall out.
Some people choose to put the networks on top of their speakers and change the internal component wiring to reach. Not only is this convenient for making adjustments, but some of the Volti networks are darned nice looking too!
So far the polyurethane feet have not created a problem with the finishes on top of
the cabinets. However,
you may want to put a placemat or some other protection under the networks
just in case.
VT Networks Connection Path
Below you will find the many different configuration options that can be made with these networks. I realize that not everyone is interested in experimenting with their equipment. Some people prefer to know what I recommend and then they just want to leave it at that. When I ship the VT networks, I set them up for what I think is a good wiring configuration, so you should be able to just leave them as wired. If you have any questions and would like to go over this wiring with me directly, please feel free to call or email and I can walk you through the connections, and I can keep it very simple for you.
The wires coming from your amplifier should go directly to one of the two pairs of input binding posts on the front of the networks. These inputs have jumper wires connecting the two together, so you can choose to use either of the two inputs. If you are bi-wiring, remove the jumpers and run the two sets of wires from your amplifier to the crossovers. On the VTK crossovers, the left set of binding posts, facing them, connect to the mid/high crossover filters and the right binding posts connect to the woofer crossover filter. Once the jumper wires are removed, there is a complete disconnect between the woofers and the midrange/tweeters. Information about bi-amping is at the bottom of this page.
Wires should be connected from the tweeter output terminals to the tweeters, from the midrange output terminals to the midrange drivers, and from the woofer output terminals to the woofers. You'll notice the VT networks are intuitively laid out in terms of component hookup. The tweeter hookup is on the back, where you see the (+) and (-), the midrange hookup is to the left of the input binding posts in front of the midrange autotransformer, and the woofer hookup is to the right of the input binding posts in front of the woofer inductors.
I cannot stress enough how important it is to make sure the polarity is correct for all of the connections. It is easier than you think to have one of the drivers wired backwards. While being wired backwards does not cause any serious damage to occur, it does mess up the imaging, soundstage, and possibly the tonal qualities of the system.
Important note: For those of you who have Klipsch Khorns with AK-2, AK-3, AK-4, or AK-5 crossover networks, do not use the input binding posts on the woofer doors as an input. After re-wiring inside the woofer chamber to disconnect all the stock crossover components inside, only use one set of the binding posts to connect the new crossovers to the woofer.
Another important note: These networks are built with a very simple design and
very few components on purpose. The goal is to use these networks to
balance and voice the upgrades in your Khorns to capture the best sound available.
The fewer the components, the less there is between you and your
music. To that end, we have not installed any measures to protect any
of the drivers from damage caused by excessive power levels. It is the
responsibility of the user to be aware of how much power is being fed
to the speaker, through the crossover network, and use necessary caution
and restraint to protect the speaker components, especially the tweeters.
Do not rely on the crossover network to provide protection for your speakers.
If you feel you need protection for your speakers (teenagers and rap music
maybe?), please add this protection in line to your networks with an inline
fuse holder and the appropriate fuses.
Midrange Output Level
The stock midrange drivers in our Khorns (K55) are more efficient than the woofer and tweeter drivers. The crossover networks not only control what frequencies go to the midrange drivers, but they also help us balance the level of the output of the drivers so that they are balanced with the woofers and tweeters. This "attenuation" is also very useful for voicing the overall sound of the speaker to compensate for variables outside of the speaker design, like the room, the user's preference, type of music, volume levels, etc...
The autotransformer (labeled 3636 on top with many wires hooked to it) is the device that is used to attenuate the midrange output. Each of the wires you see coming from the autotransformer are connected to the underside of each of the eight screws marked 0 - 5, X, and Y, to the front left of the input binding posts. Use the chart below and choose which attenuation you would like to use, and hook up the midrange driver wires to the two screws that correspond to the numbers given in the chart.
Midrange Attenuation Chart
As a starting point, for stock Klipsch Khorns with stock K55 drivers, start by attenuating the midrange -6db and use the 0-3 configuration. You would connect the positive wire of the midrange driver to screw "0" and the negative wire to screw "3". This will turn down, or attenuate the midrange 6 decibels in relation to the woofer and the tweeter.
For Klipsch Khorns upgraded with the BMS 4592 drivers (which are much more efficient than the K55) and the V-Trac horns, start by attenuating the midrange -9db by installing the positive wire from the midrange to screw 0 and the negative wire to screw "2".
After you've listened to music, try different settings to see which you like the best. There is no "correct" setting, it is user preference. I suggest you try listening at a higher level of midrange than you think you might like for a few songs, and then try listening at a lower level of midrange for a while. This will give you a good sense of how you'd like to balance the midrange in your system. This is unrelated, but I also recommend you try listening to just the midrange all alone. It's a sobering experience, as you realize how little "low-mid" is coming out of the midrange, and how much "low-mid" is coming from the bass horn.
The choice of midrange polarity - that is putting the positive wire on "0" and the negative on "2", as is shown on the chart, or reversing and putting the positive on "2" and the negative on "0" - is a user preference. However, make sure you have both drivers hooked up the same way. You may find that switching the polarity of the midrange hookup helps imaging, soundstage and even the tonal qualities of your system. In a recent test, I found that using the 0-1 setting resulted in good imaging and mid-bass tonal balance, but switching to the X-3 setting upset the imaging and tonal balance. As soon as I switched the polarity to 3-X, the imaging and tonal balance went back to normal. This was evident on a frequency response curve, not just by ear. So consider that each setting of the midrange attenuation may have a polarity that works better than the other. Some day I will test each setting and compare them, and I'm sorry I don't have that information for you right now.
In addition to using the midrange attenuation to balance and voice our V-Trac upgraded Khorns, the VTK400 network is equipped with dual woofer inductors, which offer us three different upper-bass voicings to choose from. By connecting to the five screw terminals labeled C, and 0-4, as well as locating the jumper in the correct position, we are engaging one, the other, or both inductors in line to the woofer. This effectively changes the point where the frequencies to the woofer are "rolled off", and this effects the amount of upper-bass that is coming from the bass horn.
The three different upper-bass settings are used in conjunction with the midrange attenuation to provide flexibility in setting up our systems, and because everything is being done with simple, high-quality passive components, the sound quality doesn't suffer the way it would with tone controls and/or other processing equipment. This is a pure and simple way to contour the sound from our upgraded Khorns and Belle speakers, and improve upon what is already a spectacular sounding system.
Note: it is possible to take the crossover out of the woofer and send a full range signal to the woofer. While I can't really recommend this, it may be interesting for you to try it. There's nothing that will be damaged in doing so. The Khorn bass horn rolls off the upper frequencies all on it's own anyway, so don't expect a dramatic change. It's just one more thing you might try and by removing all the inductor/s from the circuit to the woofer, it does in fact put one less thing between you and your music.
For all three upper-bass settings, the negative wire from the woofer is connected to screw "C".
To choose the highest upper-bass setting, connect the jumper to "1" and "2" and
connect the positive wire from the woofer to screw "3". This puts the
smaller of the two inductors inline to the woofer.
To choose the middle upper-bass setting, connect the jumper to "1" and "2", and
connect the positive wire from the woofer to screw "4". This puts the
larger of the two inductors inline to the woofer.
To choose the lowest upper-bass setting, connect the jumper to "2" and "3", and
connect the positive wire from the woofer to screw "4". This puts both
inductors in series, inline to the woofer.
To have no filter on the signal being passed to the woofer (full range), connect
the negative wire to "C" and the positive wire to screw "1". Store the
unused jumper on screw terminals "3" and "4" for safe keeping.
Tweeter Circuit Information
The VTB (Belle) and VTS (Split) networks come with a built in attenuator for the tweeter circuit that is an L-pad configuration of two resistors. These high quality resistors attenuate the tweeters approximately -3db.
The VTK (Khorn) networks may also utilize these same resitors to attenuate the tweeter by -3db. The VTK networks do not have these included, but if you wish to add them, you can simply order a set and install them yourself.
Here's step by step photos on how to install the resistors. Simply reverse the steps to take
them out and allow full output of the tweeters.
Here is the crossover with the (white) jumper wire installed - full output to the tweeter.
Install the 22ohm resistor and move the jumper wire down to the 'lower' screw as shown. Be sure to
carefully bend the wire as shown.
Secure the other end of the 22ohm resistor to the screw shown. It is important to turn the connector
as shown, and to keep the wire 'up' and away from other screw terminals as shown.
Here is the 22ohm resistor properly installed.
Now install the 2.2ohm (2R2) resistor.
Please note - it is important to make sure that the connectors are pointed in the right direction and that space
is maintained between these terminations to avoid shorting. Areas of concern are noted in the photo below.
Tweeter Filter Pre/Post Midrange Caps
Some networks designs have the tweeter filter hooked up before the midrange caps and some after. If the tweeter filter is hooked up after the midrange caps, it is doing less "work" to cut frequencies below 6000Hz because the midrange caps have already done the "work" of cutting out frequencies below the level necessary for the midrange filter. However, some people may prefer the sound of hooking up the tweeter filter directly to the full-range input. This is easily done on the VT networks with just a screwdriver.
Under the board, locate the screw terminal shown in this picture.
In this wiring configuration, the tweeter filter is connected before the midrange caps and is getting a full-range input signal.
To change the input to be after the midrange caps, simply move the wire to the terminal on the other side of the midrange caps as shown in this picture.
With this wiring, the signal going to the tweeter filter has already been filtered by the midrange caps to roll out frequencies lower than @300 - 400Hz (depending on the VT model).
You may or may not notice a difference between these two wiring options.
VX Network Connections and Adjustments
Connections from components to the VX networks are made on the screw terminal barrier strips located across the front of the network.
Wires from the amplifier connect to "INPUT". The VX networks can be bi-wired by removing the jumpers at the input terminals. Woofer connections are the right "-" and the right "+", and the midrange/tweeter connections are the left "-" and the left "+".
The "T" on the left is for "Tweeter".
The midrange driver is connected to the terminal strip located on top of the autotransformer - labled 0,1,2,3,4,5,X,Y. Use the chart for the 3636 autotransformer shown above.
The "W" is for woofer. The common or "-" from the woofer is connected to the "C" screw terminal. The positive or "+" from the woofer is connected to one of the terminals labeled 1,2,3, or 4. Please use the diagrams shown above for the VT networks as a guide to connecting the woofer to the VX networks. Both networks work the same way to offer you three different upper bass settings.
Note the jumper installed between 2 and 3 - sometimes hard to see. You can loosen the screws and it slides
Bi-wire and Bi-amp
If you are bi-wiring, remove the jumpers and run the two sets of wires from your amplifier to the crossovers. On the VTK crossovers, the left set of binding posts, facing them, connect to the mid/high crossover filters and the right binding posts connect to the woofer crossover filter. Once the jumper wires are removed, there is a complete disconnect between the woofers and the midrange/tweeters.
Bi-amp without active crossover - remove the jumpers and connect the mid/high amplifier to the left set of binding posts and the low amplifier to the right set. Full range signal to both. You'll need level output control for each amplifier or for each input signal.
Bi-amp with active crossover - remove the jumpers and connect the mid/high amplifier to the left set of binding posts.
Set the controls on the active crossover to provide signal of 400Hz and up, high pass. Connect the low amplifier to the woofer
input barrier strips on the woofer chamber doors, bypassing the Volti crossover completely. Set the controls on the active crossover
to provide signal 400Hz and down, low pass.
If you have any questions or problems with your installation, please don't hesitate to send me an email or call me. My phone number is on your invoice.
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