V-Trac Horn Installation
Please note - this photo-essay page was developed prior to the introduction of the V-TracII midrange
horn, and so all the photographs and references here are made to the original V-Trac. I doubt we'll
ever re-do this page using the V-TracII horns, because the horns and the installation procedures are so similar it
really isn't worth taking the time.
Thank you for your purchase of the V-Trac horns. These installation instructions will guide you through the entire installation of the V-Trac horns and related hardware for the Klipsch Khorn and Belle speakers. My apologies to the Belle V-Trac customers, you will only see pictures of Khorns here. I have not installed the Belle V-Trac horns myself, and I do not have pictures to show you. However, the installation techniques are very similar, and I believe the information here will be very useful to you. Where applicable, I will note specific differences between the Khorn and Belle installations.
V-Trac horns are shipped in product-specific packaging that has proven to be very durable, and we've had very few problems so far with shipping damage. However, please inspect the box and contents for damage, and if you do have shipping damage, please let me know asap, and before you install anything so we can put a claim in to the shipping company for reimbursement on the insurance.
V-Trac horns are shipped with the necessary hardware for installation, and you will find a bag of screws, felts, badges, and tweeter motorboards inside the box along with the horns.
Tools needed include, but may not be limited to, a variety of screwdrivers, a 1/2" box wrench, two pairs of pliers, small adjustable wrench, and perhaps a utility knife.
Unpack all the parts from the box and clean up any packing materials. Save the packing materials and box for future use.
Pull the Khorns out from the corners, and give yourself enough room to work all around each cabinet. If you are replacing woofers, remove the side grill frame on the side of the woofer access door and place out of the way.
Remove the component wiring from the crossover, the wire from the woofer chamber door, and the crossovers from the cabinets and set everything out of the way.
Remove the midrange driver by unscrewing it from the end of the horn. Remove the screw that holds the end bracket of the midrange horn down to the cabinet. Loosen the nut where the bracket is attached to the midrange horn and pull the bracket up and back so it is close to horizontal and in line with the horn.
Remove the four screws that hold the midrange horn/grill frame assembly to the top cabinet side pieces. The midrange horn is attached to a plywood frame that also holds the tweeter and is covered with grill cloth. This whole assembly is held in place by four screws. Once these four screws are removed, the assembly will loosen and slide out the front of the cabinet. Remove this assembly carefully, being sure not to damage the wood cabinet with the back of the midrange horn.
Belle owners - it is probably easier to remove the top of the cabinet first, before taking the screws out of the side pieces that hold the front grill frame/mid horn assembly. You do this by removing the four screws that screw up into the top from the cleats on the side pieces.
Remove the three screws that hold the upper brace underneath the top of the cabinet. Remove the brace (may take some force to loosen it). I have not ever re-installed this brace farther back, but I have had one Belle customer tell me that they were able to. If you do decide to measure carefully, and re-install the brace under the top, you will need to remove the top of the cabinet to do this. But I have not found that the brace is necessary.
Decide which tweeter locations you would like - both to the same side, both to the outside of the mid horn, or both to the inside of the mid horn. I prefer both to the outside, which means they are installed on opposite sides (mirror). This also means that one of the Volti serial number labels on the horns will be upside down! If this bothers you, simply unscrew that one and turn it over. Once you've determined the tweeter location, you will need to remove one of the back vertical braces on each speaker. you will remove only the one that will interfere with the installation of the mid horn and leave the other one which is on the tweeter side. So remove one vertical back brace per cabinet.
Now the disassembly is complete (except for woofers), and this is a good time to clean the upper cabinet and move all the old parts out of the way into another room so you've got plenty of room to work with the new components.
Prepare The V-Trac Horn/frame Assembly
Lay both horn/frames on their fronts on a clean, soft surface (towel on a table for instance). Find the tweeter motorboards and take a few minutes to learn how these motorboards go in place, their orientation, and how the tweeters are mounted to them. Note that there are pre-drilled holes on one side for mounting the tweeters. The tweeter motorboards only go into the frame in one direction, with the tweeter mounting holes facing forward (down at this point). They slip in under the outside edge of the frame and then drop in place. You should see three mounting screw holes through each motorboard and three corresponding holes in the frame. The holes going through the motorboard that are used for mounting them to the frame are at an angle so the screws angle into the frame for a better connection.
I find that it's easier to attach the wires to the tweeters before mounting them to the motorboards.
Holding the motorboards in the proper orientation, drop the tweeter wires down through the motorboards and attach the tweeters to the motorboards with the small black screws provided. The tweeters should end up on the front of the motorboards, facing out of the front of the grill frame.
Now mount the tweeters/motorboard into the frame and secure with three black screws provided. These look like drywall screws, but they are not, they are made for fast connections to particle board, and I find they work great for plywood as well. There are six screws provided for the two tweeter motorboards, and eight screws to replace the factory screws for mounting the horn assemblies into the cabinets. Note that the tweeter motorboards are centered in the opening top to bottom, however they are pushed snug against the outside of the frame. This is how the holes were pre-drilled for them to be installed.
NEW - starting in 2016 - V-Trac horns have alignment screws that hold the midrange motorboard properly aligned with the throat of the horn. There are two small philips-head screws in each midrange motorboard. A red paint dot on the motorboard and on the horn brace shows the orientation of the motorboard (top to bottom), and the screws line it up so that the motorboard throat lines up perfectly with the horn throat. The screws can be installed/uninstalled with a philips screw driver, or with a square-drive bit included with your hardware kit. Please note that the photos shown here do NOT show the alignment screws or red paint dots.
Remove the two alignment screws in each midrange motorboard, and then unbolt and remove the midrange motorboard from the horn. Please be sure to keep the motorboard that comes with each horn with the horn that it came from - keep the two horns far enough apart so the motorboards don't get mixed up from one horn to another. Note that there are plastic washers that may stick to the motorboard. These washers need to go back in the same place when the motorboard is tightened down. Also note, that there are flat washers that usually stick to the underside of the upright supports where the motorboards are mounted. Just leave them there and/or put them back in place when re-installing the motorboard.
Use the machine screws and washers provided to mount the midrange driver to the motorboards. Be sure to center the driver in the hole before tightening the screws. Tighten the screws very snug so they don't loosen up from vibrations.
Re-install the motorboards with the drivers attached. Don't forget the four plastic washers. Use the red paint dots on the motorboards and horns for the correct orientation of the motorboard on the horn (top/bottom). Install the four bolts down through the motorboard, but don't install the washers or nuts at this time. Install the two alignment screws through the motorboards and into the horn frame. This will align the motorboard so that the throat of the motorboard and driver is perfectly aligned with the throat of the horn. Then go ahead and install the washers and nuts, and tighten down the bolts.
Apply felts to the underside of the upright supports, but locate them towards the fronts of the supports as shown in the picture. These supports support the weight of the back of the horn inside the cabinet. Apply felts to the top and bottom of the horns. It's usually best to install them over the grill cloth, but not where the grill cloth is folded on the corners - as shown in the picture.
Now the horn/grill frame assembly is ready to be installed in the cabinet.
Install The Parts
We recommend that you install your V-Trac horns so that the tweeters are located on the outside of each speaker - that is outside of the midrange horn. Feel free to experiment with the tweeters on the inside and let us know what you experience. We prefer the sound of the tweeters being outside the midrange horns.
Gently push the horn/grill frame assembly into the front of the cabinet and slide it through until the fronts slip in under the top of the cabinet. It may be a tight fit, and you may need to keep the felts from folding over as you slide it in place.
On some Khorns, the rear braces on the underside of the top interfere with the horn/grill assembly and keep you from being able to center the assembly in the tophat. If this is the case, you'll need to whittle away a bit of the corner of that brace that is hitting the midrange motorboard on the V-Trac horn until the horn/grill frame is comfortably able to be centered in the tophat. Mark with a pencil, pull the horn out a little, and whittle away the wood with a knife.
Before screwing the new screws through the four holes in the side pieces and into the new frame assembly, it is very important to line up those side pieces with the side of the horn assembly. You'll find that you will need to tap and adjust the horn assembly from side to side, but you also may need to adjust the top of the speaker from side to side to keep the sides of the cabinet from being crooked with the sides of the horns.
Once everything is lined up properly, start all four screws into the horn/grill frame assembly. Me? I just muscle the screws into the new frame until they are tight. But this may not be comfortable for everyone. Alternately you may want to pre-drill holes in the frame for the screws to screw into. To do this, start all four screws part way into the frame to mark the locations of the screws, and then back them out, take the frame out and carefully pre-drill the holes in those locations marked by starting the screws. Then put the frame back in and drive the screws home.
Install the new crossovers. If you did not order a wiring kit with your upgrades, you will need to make a new, longer woofer wire for one of the speakers, since the crossover on one of the speakers will be located on the other side of the tophat from where it normally lives. With all new wiring, you can locate the crossovers on top of the cabinets, as I do. This allows for easy adjustments to the crossovers. Consider doing this even just temporarily, to make tuning the system easier - not having to pull the cabinets each time you want to make an adjustment.
If you're still using the old wiring, now is a good time to make sure your wiring is in good condition, and possibly clean the ends of the wires so they make a good connection.
Connect the tweeter wires to the tweeter connections on the crossovers, being very careful to make sure the polarity is correct for both speakers. Connect the midrange drivers to the midrange output on the crossovers being very careful to make sure the polarity is correct for both speakers. Connect the woofer wires to the woofer output on the crossovers being very careful to make sure the polarity is correct for both speakers.
I cannot stress enough how important it is for proper stereo imaging to have the polarity exactly the same for each component in both speakers. You should take the time to double check this and make a mental note of each connection before pushing the speakers back into the corners.
Don't forget the badges!
When you push the Khorns back into the corners, make sure they are as tight as possible to the walls.
Note for those of you who have AK networks in your Khorns. You likely have crossover components inside the woofer chamber. If this is the case, you will need to bypass those components when upgrading to new crossover networks. The components inside the woofer chamber are bypassed with a wire directly from the banana jack connector to the woofer, both positive and negative, so there is no connection at all with any of the components.
If you have any questions or problems with your installation, please don't
hesitate to send me an email or call me. My phone number is on your
If you're replacing woofers, you'll need a soldering iron and possibly longer screws for mounting the woofers.
Remove the woofer chamber door, being careful not to pull the wire from the woofer inside.
Remove the woofer from the chamber. The woofer is mounted either by four machine screws or by a removable motorboard that is mounted with metal braces and wingnuts.
Unsolder the wires from the woofers.
If the woofer is attached to a motorboard, remove the woofer from this motorboard and install the new woofer onto the motorboard. This may require longer screws. The Crites woofers use a double gasket on the fronts. I've used 12 x 1-1/4" pan head screws for this.
Solder the wires onto the new woofers, being very careful to make sure the polarity is correct. You'll need to look on the outside of the woofer chamber door for the polarity and follow that to the inside of the door. I recommend marking the positive connection on the inside of the woofer chamber door. Make a mental note that the polarity is correct - positive connector outside the door to the inside of the door to the positive connection on the woofer. Trust me on this, you don't want to wonder after you've closed up the woofer chamber door!
Re-install the woofer, the woofer chamber door, and the woofer wire. if you're using machine screws to install the woofers, be sure to start those screws manually so they don't strip. Also, don't push in very hard when you are screwing them in. They are screwing into T-nuts, and sometimes those nuts have loosened up and will push through the back side if you push on the machine screws too hard.
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